PHYSICAL FEEL OF THE ROCKER
If the feel of your RMC wah is too soft/loose, you can tighten
it up by tightening the small hex nuts on the inside of the pedal. One is near
the battery area. You should be able to tighten that one enough to firm up the
feel, without even getting to the other nut located under the pc board.
If you feel the action is too tight/stiff, you can loosen the same
nut.
If you adjust the nut under the pc board, make sure the screw shaft
does not contact the underside of the pcb.
NOTE: Before you start
tightening the nuts, take a look under the rocker and judge just how much room,
if any, you have to work with. If you don't, you could over tighten the screw and
pop the head off. The screw is a common 3/4 inch 6x32 screw. It doesn't really
matter if it is a Phillips head or flat head.
It is also possible to add tension by tightening the screw which holds the cable clamp/rack gear tensioner in place (against the pot gear). You can push the clamp/tensioner against the gear firmly as you tighten the screw and be assured you've done what you can with this method.
As something of a last
ditch effort, the case can be fully dismantled, the flat spring turned around
180 degrees (so the built-in angle falls in a different place), and then
all reassembled. (The "flat spring" is the metal "strap" that runs over the
axle which attaches the rocker to the base. The flat spring is what exerts
added pressure as you tighten the nuts mentioned at the beginning of this
section.)
ON/OFF SWITCH ADJUSTMENT
CARLINGSWITCH
ADJUSTMENT
If the on/off switch needs adjustment, get a 9/16 open ended
wrench and loosen the hex nut on the top of the switch. Once the nut is loose
enough, adjust the inner round nut on the switch on the inside of the pedal.
Turn the round nut in 1/4 to 1/2 turns ONLY. A little goes a long way. Raise the
switch action by lowering (closer to the switch body) the round nut. Finger
tighten the top hex nut and try it out. Repeat until you get it perfect for what
you want.
BLUE
TPDT ADJUSTMENT
Look
inside the wah, at the switch. You'll see a white plastic washer being
used as the height adjuster. Now, look at the top, where the switch is
secured to the base. You'll see 2 nuts and an inner-toothed metal
washer. Remove the 2 nuts and metal washer. Drop the switch
down. Remove the white plastic washer. Put the metal washer there
instead. Now push the switch back up and only use ONE of the nuts to
tighten it. Make it snug, DO NOT torque it down hard or you'll rip apart
the switch. The metal washer and 2nd nut are there only for use as height
adjusters. By putting the thinner metal washer in, you've raised the
height of the switch. The white washer is 2x the thickness of the metal
washer, and the nut is the same thickness as the white washer AND metal washer
together. Personally, I use one of the nuts as my height adjuster.
That way I get full sweep, as little mechanical noise as possible, and when I
want to activate/deactivate the wah, I just put some serious weight on the
switch. Some people prefer the height afforded by the metal washer.
For me, that makes it too easy to switch on/off/null by accident. I like
to have to WORK to operate the switch.
So, how do you know if your switch is bad or just needs height adjustment? Here's an easy test. Use your thumb to repeatedly cycle the switch while there is a signal passing through the wah. If the switch funtions properly 100% of the time in this test then the switch is operationaly sound. If the switch does not function properly 100% of the time in this test then the switch should be replaced.
If your switch tests
perfectly but does not function 100% of the time in "real world" usage then
you will need to address either the switch height or the ft/lb of pressure
you use to activate the switch as you would have already verified the functionality
of the switch and therefore negated the possibility of the problem being
one of switch failure.
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